Pattern – Basic Fitted Crochet Top for Neo Blythe

In all honesty, it would probably be faster to just sew this top using fabric and thread. But if you’re like me, and you can’t sew to save your life, here is a pattern I drafted for a very basic boat neck top. This is the first pattern I’ve ever posted anywhere publicly! Hopefully it’s easy to follow (and if not, please don’t hesitate to ask for clarification).

Some ideas of how to use this pattern

  • You can make the top longer by repeating row 2.
  • You can use this piece as the top of a dress by sewing a skirt to it or crocheting a separate skirt and whip stitching the two pieces together.
  • You can add sleeves or picots to the arm holes.
  • You can add scallop edging.

Materials used

Crochet Thread 10
1.65mm hook

Stitches used:

Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Single crochet increase (sc inc)
Double crochet increase (dc inc)
Single crochet decrease (sc dec)
Double crochet decrease (dc dec)
Griddle Stitch – This is the name of the stitch I am predominantly using. To create the griddle stitch, simply alternate between sc and dc. On the following row, alternate between sc and dc, making sure to sc in a stitch that was a dc in the previous row, and vice versa. It’s easier if you work with an even number of stitches, that way you will always start with a sc and end with a dc. In this pattern, every row begins with a sc and ends with a dc.


  • Always chain 1 and turn at the end of each row.
  • I like making one back piece longer than the other, that way I create an allowance area to sew snaps.
  • I am kind of partial to using the griddle stitch because the rows aren’t so apparent when the top is complete. This stitch also gives the piece an interesting texture.
  • This pattern looks ginormous, but it’s only 9 rows!


Chain 10 (back) + 4 (side) + 12 (Front) + 4 (side) + 8 (back) (38 stitches). Chain 1 and turn.

Row 1: (sc, dc) x 19 (38 stitches). Chain 1 and turn.

Row 2: Griddle stitch to end of row (38 stitches). Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3: (sc, dc) until stitch #10. dc increase in stitch 10. (sc, dc) until stitch #15. sc increase in stitch #15. (dc, sc) until stitch #26. dc in stitch #26. (sc, dc) until stitch #31. sc increase in stitch #31. (dc, sc) to end of row. (42 stitches). Chain 1 turn.

Row 4: Griddle stitch to end of row (42 stitches). Chain 1 and turn.

Note: If you’re not sure if you’ve used the correct stitch to make the griddle stitch pattern, it’s alright. The beauty of this stitch I find is that it’s quite forgiving, so long as it’s only a few stitches that do not correctly alternate between rows.

Row 5: Griddle stitch until stitch #10. dc increase in stitch #10. Griddle stitch until stitch #16. sc increase in stitch #16. Griddle stitch until stitch #25. sc increase in stitch #25. Griddle Stitch until stitch #31. dc increase in stitch #31. Griddle stitch until end of row (46 stitches). Chain 1 and turn.

Row 6: Griddle stitch until stitch #9. Chain 10 and skip 4 stitches. Griddle stitch starting from stitch #13 until stitch #32. Chain 10 and skip 4 stitches. Griddle stitch until the end of the row. Chain 1 and turn.


Row 7: Griddle stitch until stitch #10. dc decrease in stitch #10 and into the 10 chain. (sc, dc) x 4 into the chain. sc decrease into the 10 chain and into stitch #15. Griddle stitch until you reach the other 10 chain.Repeat the dc decrease, (sc, dc) x 4, sc decrease to the other 10 chain. Griddle stitch to the end of the row. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 8: Griddle stitch is used for the entire row, save when you insert a decrease. Insert decreases before and after the start of a sleeve (the hole formed by the 10 chain in row 6), at the very top of the sleeve, and the center of the chest. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 9: Repeat row 8.


I made a visual pattern!

Click to enlarge!

Click to enlarge!

Please do not sell this pattern or claim this pattern as your own. Feel free to sell items made using this pattern or share this pattern on your own blog, but please make sure to credit me and my blog. Thank you!

Crochet in Miniature – A Blythe Beanie

I have difficulty with scaling patterns to Blythe doll proportions. Actually, I find scaling any and all patterns, whether it’s for crocheting, sewing, drawing, etc, HARD. I recently had some success in shrinking one of my favorite hat patterns down to fit my girls, and I thought I would share ^^. I actually made matching hats for me and Rosaline for when we went to Anime Expo last weekend.

Here is the original pattern: Danyel Pink Design’s Super Slouch Hat

And here is the one I made for Rosaline just now!


The yarn I used for this hat is Bernat Dippity Dots in Pink. The hooks I used were a 5.5mm hook, a 4mm hook, and a 3.5mm hook. I wouldn’t say that having all three of these hooks is necessary, but for this pattern I’m basically playing around with the gauge. I pretty much followed the pattern (linked above and here), with a few minor changes.

Round 1: Using the 5.5mm hook, I did 8 HDC into the magic ring.
Round 5: I switched to the 4mm hook here.
Round 7-9: I switched to the 3.5mm hook here.
Round 10-12: I started the hat’s band here and switched to the 4mm hook.

There is a tiny bit of slouch to the hat, which I like. I think if I use a finer yarn, I can probably make this beanie even slouchier. For the hat that Rosaline wore at Anime Expo (the Where’s Waldo hat), I used Caron’s Simply Soft yarn, and probably only the 4.0mm and 3.5mm hooks.

I love this pattern both for my dolls and for myself because it’s super easy, quick, and very cute.

Rosaline’s OATM (Outfit At The Moment):
Beanie – Crocheted by me
Dress – Reve de Rui
Shoes -Qmagicdoll

Edit: for the hat, decrease tension if you want a looser fit, but keep stitches fairly tight for the band. If you find the band is not as snug as desired, try using the 3.5mm hook for the band. Also, the more rows (prior to the band) that you do, the slouchier the hat is.

Second wind

After a fail day of trying to sew some clothes, I decided I’d take another stab at doing a couple of more customs to my new girl. And I would like to add, my cat was a GIANT pain in my butt the entire time (knocking things off my dresser, actually splaying herself on top of the fabrics I”m about to measure and cut, chewing on things she’s not supposed to. OMG GIRL JUST CHILL.)

I really wanted to boggle Rosaline to give her a childlike, wide-eyed look. I wasn’t able to a couple of days ago because I couldn’t finagle her eye balls out of her eye mech. After a while of wedging and prying, I finally popped them out!

While i was at it, I decided to give her some superficial white freckles using acrylic paints (as suggested by Jann from Project Doll House). I ran out of Mr. Super Clear UV Matt spray after spraying Rosaline’s face a bunch of times a couple of nights ago, so I didn’t fret over decorating her eye lids. It’s also raining something fierce, so I wasn’t too bummed (I didn’t feel like I could have done more, but I didn’t). I don’t think her not having decorated lids takes away from the vibe I was going for.



Ahhh I’m so happy!

So, here’s a checklist of things I’ve done to Rosaline:

  • Gave her sleep eyes – easy peasy
  • Gave her a gaze lift – easy peasy
  • Changed her pull strings to a pink cord – easy peasy
  • Gave her a fringe – not too bad
  • Sand matted her face – easy peasy
  • Blushed her cheeks – 😦 I wasn’t the best at this. I think the difficulty depends on the effect you’re going for.
  • Some lip carving – not terrible, but again I think it depends on what look you want to achieve. In my case, I followed Rosaline’s natural lip line, and defined it some. I carved a little outside of her factory drawn lips, to give her a small smile. I think it’s amazing when some customizers drastically change the shape of the lips, and breathe life into their doll.
  • Some nostril definition (very, very subtle) – because, why not? I just used my carving tool (sintered needle) and made repetitive small circular motions where her nostril is.
  • Boggled her eyes – popping the eyes out of the mech was HARD. cutting the plastic to achieve the boggled look was pretty easy.
  • Gave her faint white freckles – easy peasy

Here’s what’s in store for her:

  • New pull rings and charms! I bought a pendant from eBay that I want to use. I just need to order pull rings (I have my eye on these Glitter Pull rings and these Jelly Pull rings).
  • Maybe one day I will paint her eye lids. It’s kind of a hassle to buy Mr. Super Clear, and I also don’t like using it because I don’t take all the precautions when spraying. I know that a respirator is heavily recommended, but I just put a simple mask on and spray my dolls outside and quickly walk upwind of my doll.
  • Most likely a Licca body.
  • Fin.

Here are a few things I’ve learned, as well as some resources I found extremely helpful.

  • The factory girl’s eye chips are smaller than that of a standard blythe! I tried switching out Rosaline’s green front facing chips with a pair of hand painted ones, but they wouldn’t fit in the slot. I asked a blythe facebook group about it, and apparently some of the fakes have smaller eye chips and that sanding is required if I want to use a different set than the one the doll came with. Oh well.
  • Customizing takes a long time. I would estimate that Rosaline took me 7-8 hours total to customize. I know I spent about an hour on her hair cut and curling. I’m not sure if this time frame is normal, or if I’m just really slow.
  • Unassembling SUCKS. I would say the hardest parts were popping out her eye mech from her head, and then the eye balls from the eye mech.
  • I found these websites very helpful.

List of things I used:
Water color pencils, Soft chalk pastels, a razor blade, Sintered diamond needle file, Very fine grain sand paper, Screw drivers (various sizes), Acrylic paints, Q-Tips, Toothpicks, Mr Super Clear Flat UV cut (I purchased mine off of eBay), paint brushes (I didn’t need these, but I like using them to blend the pastels, and the very fine tipped brush to use the chalk pastel wet to get into the crevice of Rosaline’s lips).

I’m exhausted.